For dogs who pull on the leash
Turn Leash Pulling Into Loose, Relaxed Walks, the Reward-Based Way
18 short video lessons that teach your dog a loose leash is what moves the walk forward. No yanking, no choke or prong collars.
- 18 short video lessons, about an hour in total
- Make the space beside your leg the best place to be
- Pause when the leash tightens, so pulling stops paying off
- Printable workbook and 21-day walk tracker included
One-time payment · No subscription · 30-day refund policy
- 30-day refund policy
- Instant access
- Lifetime access
The problem
Sound familiar?
- Your dog pulls from the moment the leash clips on, and your shoulder feels it by the end of the street.
- Walks are stop-start: lurch forward, stop to sniff, zigzag across your feet, repeat.
- Your dog is so excited at the door that the walk starts in chaos.
- You've tried stopping, tugging back or saying 'heel', and it hasn't stuck.
- Walks feel like a chore, so they're getting shorter.
None of that means your dog is bad, or that you've failed. Your dog has learned a routine, and routines can be re-learned.
The key insight
Why your dog keeps pulling
Dogs naturally walk faster than people (Blue Cross notes a dog's natural pace is usually about twice ours), they want to reach interesting smells and places, and, as Dogs Trust explains, many have learned that pulling is how they get to move forward. Loose-leash walking gets easier when pulling stops paying off and a loose leash starts paying off: make the space beside you rewarding, stop when the leash tightens, turn sniffing into a reward instead of a battle, and start the walk calm. The skill is built indoors first, then in quiet places, then with real distractions, one small step at a time.
How it works
The 3-part Loose-Leash method
- 1
Build the reward zone
Comfortable gear, a 'Yes!' marker and treats delivered at your leg, so the space beside you pays off. Practised indoors first, in 1–2 minute sessions.
- 2
Make pulling stop paying off
Tight leash means wait, loose leash means go. Be a tree when the leash tightens and use cheerful U-turns, with no leash pressure or jerks.
- 3
Walks your dog enjoys
Sniffing becomes a reward you give with a 'Go sniff!' cue, every walk begins with a calm start, and distractions are added gradually.
The goal
The walk you'll practise
Leash on when four paws are on the floor, a calm step out the door, then a slack leash on a quiet route, with sniff breaks as the reward. Every stage is broken into short sessions, with clear 'move on when' criteria in your 21-day plan.
- Walks that feel more like a shared activity and less like a tug-of-war
- A clear plan for what to do the moment the leash goes tight
- Sniffing becomes a reward you give, not a constant battle
- A calmer, more predictable start to every walk
One-time payment · No subscription · 30-day refund policy
Everything included
What you get today
18 video lessons
Short, narrated lessons with clear on-screen steps
Printable workbook
21 sections: checklists, practice logs, cue cards, troubleshooting
21-day walk tracker
Minutes, tree stops, U-turns, best loose stretch and calm-start time
4-page quick start
The whole method in 5 short, printable sections
Loose-Leash Walking Program
$39one-time
- 18 video lessons across 6 modules
- Printable workbook, quick start and 21-day walk tracker
- Lifetime access on any device
- 30-day refund policy
One-time payment · No subscription · 30-day refund policy
Inside the program
6 modules, 18 short lessons
1Gear & Groundwork3 lessons
- ▸ Why Dogs Pull (and a Quick Scope Check) · 4 min
- ▸ Choosing Comfortable Gear · 4 min
- ▸ Picking Your Rewards and Marker · 3 min
2Building the Reward Zone Indoors3 lessons
- ▸ Find the Reward Zone · 3 min
- ▸ Follow Me: Walking Together Indoors · 3 min
- ▸ Leash Handling Basics · 3 min
3Stopping the Pull3 lessons
- ▸ Be a Tree: Pause When the Leash Tightens · 3 min
- ▸ U-Turns Without Leash Pressure · 3 min
- ▸ Tight Leash Means Wait, Loose Leash Means Go · 3 min
4Sniffing on Your Terms2 lessons
- ▸ Sniff Breaks as Rewards · 3 min
- ▸ Zigzags and Leash Wraps · 3 min
5Calm Starts & Real-World Walks4 lessons
- ▸ The Calm Start: Leash On and Out the Door · 3 min
- ▸ Training Walks vs. Exercise Outlets · 4 min
- ▸ Adding Distractions Gradually · 3 min
- ▸ Walk Safety Basics · 4 min
6Troubleshooting & Progress3 lessons
- ▸ Your 21-Day Plan and Walk Tracker · 3 min
- ▸ When Progress Stalls · 3 min
- ▸ When to Get Help · 4 min
Your options
How it compares
| Loose-Leash Walking | Yanking & leash pops | Prong or choke collars | Private trainer | |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Teaches that a loose leash is what moves the walk forward | ||||
| Humane, reward-based methods | Varies | |||
| Step-by-step plan you follow at home | ||||
| Practise on your own schedule | ||||
| Best for lunging, barking, fear or aggression on walks | ||||
| Cost | $39 one-time | Free | Varies | Usually much more per session |
If your dog lunges, barks, growls or snaps at dogs, people, bikes or cars, is fearful on walks, or shows any aggression, start with your vet and then a qualified reward-based behavior professional. The program's first lesson includes a scope check.
The plan
Your first 3 weeks
- Days 1–3
Gear and groundwork
An observation walk, gear fit, a reward menu, charging your 'Yes!' marker, and the reward zone indoors.
- Days 4–7
Indoors to quiet outdoors
Follow-me with turns and 'Let's go', leash handling, the calm start, short tree sessions and the U-turn cue indoors.
- Week 2
The rule + sniff breaks
Tight waits, loose goes on every training walk, U-turns, planned 'Go sniff!' breaks, and work on zigzags.
- Week 3
One step harder
One slightly busier route or time, your distraction ladder, high rewards, and a progress check against week 1.
A framework, not a deadline. Your dog sets the pace, and most dogs need months of regular practice.
Honest fit check
Is this right for your dog?
A great fit if…
- Owners of friendly, excitable dogs who pull toward smells, places and people they like
- Puppies and adolescent dogs learning leash manners
- Owners who want to stop using corrections and switch to a reward-based approach
- Anyone with a zigzagging, stop-start walker
Not the right fit if…
- Dogs who lunge, bark, growl or snap at other dogs, people, bikes or cars. Please work with your vet and a qualified reward-based behavior professional.
- Dogs who are fearful on walks (freezing, hiding, trying to flee).
- Dogs with pain, injury or mobility issues that haven't been checked by a vet.
- Anyone looking for a quick fix with a correction collar, or a promise of results in a set number of days.
Try it for 30 days
30-day refund policy: if the course isn't right for you, contact support within 30 days of purchase.
Questions
Frequently asked questions
My dog lunges and barks at other dogs. Will this program help?
No, that's outside the scope of this program. Lunging and barking at dogs, people, bikes or cars (leash reactivity) can come from fear or frustration and needs a different plan. Please start with your vet and then a qualified reward-based behavior professional. You can still use the gear and safety lessons, but avoid training near those triggers.
Do I need a special harness?
No particular brand is needed. A comfortable, well-fitted harness and a fixed-length leash of about 6 ft (2 m) are enough. A front-clip harness, where the leash attaches at the chest, is often helpful for dogs who pull strongly; RSPCA Australia calls it a gentle training aid. The Gear Fit Check in your workbook helps you check the fit.
Why not use a prong, choke, slip or shock collar?
The American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior recommends reward-based methods for all dog training and advises against tools that work through pain, along with leash jerking. RSPCA Australia says choke, slip and prong collars cause pain and distress and must not be used. Collars can also put pressure on the neck when a dog pulls. This program uses rewards only.
What about head halters?
They're not part of the starting kit. RSPCA Australia suggests trying training and a front-attach harness first, and VCA's veterinary behaviorists note many dogs need weeks of gentle conditioning to accept one. If a head halter is ever suggested for your dog, have a reward-based professional fit it and show you how to use it.
Can I use my retractable leash?
Not for training walks. Retractable leads reduce your control, can let a dog reach traffic, can jerk the neck at the sudden stop, and tend to reward pulling. Use a fixed-length leash of about 6 ft (2 m). For free sniffing, a fixed-length long line on a harness in a safe open area works well.
How long will it take?
It varies with your dog's age, history, energy and how consistently you practise. Battersea notes puppies may show progress within a few weeks while adult dogs who've pulled for a long time may take longer, and VCA's veterinary behaviorists say most dogs need several months of regular practice. The course gives you a 21-day starting plan and a tracker, but no timeline is promised.
My dog still needs exercise while we're training. What do I do?
Keep training walks short and give your dog daily exercise and sniffing outlets separately, such as play, sniffing games or a fixed-length long line in a safe open area. The lesson 'Training Walks vs. Exercise Outlets' covers options for must-do trips too.
Will my dog have to stay in a strict 'heel' the whole walk?
No. The goal is a loose leash, not a formal heel. Your dog can be a little ahead, look around and sniff, as long as the leash stays slack. Sniff breaks are built in as rewards.
Doesn't using sniffing as a reward mean my dog sniffs less?
The aim is predictable sniffing, not less sniffing. RSPCA NSW says sniffing shouldn't be restricted, and PDSA says to let your dog sniff and explore. Your dog earns frequent sniff breaks with a loose leash, and gets free sniffing time in exercise outlets.
Is it okay for puppies?
Yes, the exercises suit puppies. Keep sessions short and walks gentle. The Royal Kennel Club gives a rule of thumb of about five minutes of formal exercise per month of age, up to twice a day; ask your vet about the right amount for your puppy's age and breed, and check harness fit often as they grow.
What if my dog suddenly stops wanting to walk?
Sudden reluctance, limping, stiffness or tiring easily can be signs of pain or a health problem, and dogs can be good at hiding pain. Stop training and check with your vet before continuing. Freezing, trembling or trying to go home can be fear, which also needs professional help.
Is this course reviewed by a vet or a credentialed behavior professional?
No. It's an educational course researched and written with AI assistance from published veterinary and animal-welfare guidance, which is cited on every lesson. It hasn't been reviewed by a credentialed veterinary behaviorist or behavior professional, and it isn't a substitute for advice from your vet.
What's your refund policy?
We offer a 30-day refund policy. If the course isn't right for you, contact support within 30 days of purchase.
Make your next walk a training walk, not a tug-of-war.
Start today with lesson 1. If the program isn't right for you, contact support within 30 days for a refund.
One-time payment · No subscription · 30-day refund policy
Where the methods come from
- Built from published guidance by veterinary and animal-welfare sources, including the UC Davis Clinical Animal Behavior Service, VCA veterinary behaviorists, RSPCA Australia, RSPCA NSW, Dogs Trust, Blue Cross, Battersea, PDSA, The Royal Kennel Club and San Francisco SPCA. None of these organizations has reviewed or endorsed this course.
- Reward-based methods, in line with the American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior's Humane Dog Training position statement (no endorsement implied).
- Every lesson lists its sources, and we flag where sources disagree (for example, on leash length and head halters) or where something is our practical convention.
- Out-of-scope problems (reactivity, fear, aggression) and health warning signs are referred to your vet and qualified professionals.
- Loose Leash Walking (client handout) (UC Davis School of Veterinary Medicine)
- Position Statement on Humane Dog Training (AVSAB)
- How to Choose a Trainer (AVSAB)
- Loose Leash Walking With Dogs (Controlling Pulling on Walks) (VCA Animal Hospitals (LifeLearn))
- Collar and Harness Options for Dogs (VCA Animal Hospitals (LifeLearn))
- Head Halter Training for Dogs (VCA Animal Hospitals (LifeLearn))
- What equipment should I use when teaching my dog or puppy to walk on a leash? (RSPCA Australia Knowledgebase)
- Walks that feel good for everyone (handout) (RSPCA NSW)
- How to stop your dog pulling on the lead (Dogs Trust)
- How to stop your dog pulling on the lead (Blue Cross)
Honest limits
- Progress varies by dog and depends on consistent practice. Early training walks are shorter and slower, and most dogs need months of regular practice.
- This program is for ordinary, excitement-driven pulling. It does not address lunging, barking or growling at dogs, people or vehicles, fear on walks, or aggression.
- Equipment helps but doesn't replace training, and we won't recommend pain-based tools.
- It can't diagnose pain or mobility problems. A dog who suddenly doesn't want to walk, limps or tires unusually should see a vet.
- Educational content only. It has not been reviewed by a credentialed veterinary behaviorist and isn't veterinary advice.
- No results are guaranteed.
Results vary with practice and with each dog.