Frequently asked questions

It varies a lot between dogs. The program includes a structured 3-week plan with about 10 minutes of practice a day, but many dogs need longer, and long-standing habits usually take longer to change. Use the tracker to compare with your baseline rather than a calendar. We can't promise a timeframe or a specific result.

That isn't the goal. Barking is normal dog communication, and welfare organizations recommend aiming to reduce it. A typical goal is a bark or two, then the mat, and calm within a minute or so after a guest arrives. Results vary.

We offer a 30-day refund policy. If the program isn't right for you, contact support within 30 days of purchase.

The methods are reward-based and suitable for any age. Keep sessions shorter for puppies. For senior dogs, especially if barking has changed recently, see your vet first, because hearing loss or pain can change behavior.

Some breeds are more vocal than others, so expectations differ. The same principles apply to every breed: management, rewarding quiet, changing what the doorbell predicts, and teaching a mat behavior.

Partly. A deaf dog may be reacting to vibration, movement, shadows or your reaction rather than the bell itself. The mat, management and visitor protocol still apply, using visual cues (like a hand signal) instead of 'thank you'. The doorbell sound exercises won't be relevant. If hearing has changed recently, see your vet.

Yes, as long as it's ordinary alert barking. Footsteps, voices and doors in the hallway are door-adjacent triggers, and the same tools apply: block access to the door, capture quiet, 'thank you', the mat, and low-volume sound pairing. If the barking happens mainly while you're out, that may be separation-related and is outside this program's scope.

Train each dog separately first, then practice together once both are reliable. During real arrivals, have one dog behind a gate or in another room with a chew while you manage the other.

No. The program is reward-based only, in line with the American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior's 2021 position on humane dog training. We don't use or recommend shock, spray, citronella, vibration or ultrasonic collars, startle methods, or dominance-based techniques.

Not on its own. Growling, snapping, lunging or any bite history needs a qualified behavior professional. Keep your dog safely separated from guests in the meantime. The right-fit lesson explains who to contact.

Not much: small tasty treats, a mat or bed, a baby gate or leash, and a way to play doorbell and knock sounds quietly (your own phone recording works). The optional Doorbell Practice Sound Pack provides graded recordings, but you don't need it.

You can do most of the program alone: management, the mat, 'thank you', sound pairing, the real bell with no visitor, and the door chain. For the helper ladder, a friend, neighbor or family member for a few short sessions makes a real difference. Even one or two sessions help.

No. It's an educational program based on published guidance from veterinary behavior and animal-welfare organizations and on research about training methods. It hasn't been individually reviewed by a credentialed behaviorist, and it isn't a substitute for an assessment of your dog by a vet or qualified professional.

It varies a lot with age, size, history, health and consistency. Welfare organizations describe anything from a few weeks to several months, and setbacks are normal. The course gives you a structured three-week starting plan and clear progress criteria, but we can't promise a timeline or a specific result. Your potty log is the best way to see real progress.

The course uses the UC Davis veterinary behavior service's age-based starting points (for example, about 8–10 breaks a day from 6 to 14 weeks), plus a trip after every trigger: waking, eating, drinking, play and excitement. Young puppies who are awake and active often need a trip every 1–2 hours, and more often during play. These are starting points that you adjust with your log.

It's a popular rough guide that some sources mention, but it isn't reliable for every puppy, and many puppies need to go much sooner when they're awake and active. The course uses triggers, age-based starting points and your own log instead.

No. Puppies need access to fresh water, and PDSA's vets advise never restricting water to control accidents. The course treats a big drink as a trigger for a potty trip and uses a calm, consistent evening routine. If you're considering any change to water access, especially for a very young, small or unwell puppy, talk to your vet first.

No, but you do need a safe, comfortable rest area for times you can't supervise: a crate, a playpen, or a small puppy-proofed room. If you use a crate, it's a short-term management tool, never a punishment, and daytime stretches are kept short (PDSA advises never more than three hours at a time, and young puppies usually need a break much sooner).

Yes. Pads and turf trays are legitimate options, especially for very young puppies, high-rises and long absences. The honest trade-off is that if your goal is outdoors, you'll later teach a second location. The course shows you how to use pads consistently and how to transition gradually to outdoors.

Calmly interrupt, for example by saying their name or a cheerful 'outside!', or gently scoop up a small puppy, then go to the potty spot and reward if they finish there. If they're already mid-pee, let them finish, then take them out. Don't scold, shout, clap or startle them. That tends to teach puppies to hide when they go.

Regressions are common and are often about freedom expanding too fast, a schedule slipping, or a change at home. But a sudden change can also be medical, especially with very frequent peeing, straining, blood, more drinking or diarrhea. In those cases, see your vet first. The troubleshooting lesson walks you through both.

Yes, with planning. The course shows you how to fit trips around your day and what to do when you'll be out longer than your puppy can manage: arrange a sitter or neighbor, or use a pen with a bed at one end and a potty area at the other. Crates shouldn't be used for long daytime stretches.

The same principles apply, and the course includes a short lesson on adult dogs, though it may take longer. An adult who was house-trained and starts soiling, who soils only when left alone, or who seems anxious should see a vet first, and may need a qualified behavior professional. The course doesn't treat those problems.

Usually not. Excitement or submissive dribbling is common in young puppies and isn't a house-training failure. Many outgrow it. The course covers calm, low-pressure greetings. Never scold it. If it's frequent, isn't easing, or your puppy seems generally fearful, talk to your vet.

No. It's an educational course researched and written with AI assistance from published veterinary and animal-welfare guidance, which is cited on every lesson. It hasn't been reviewed by a credentialed veterinary behaviorist or certified behavior professional, and it isn't a substitute for advice from your vet.

We offer a 30-day refund policy. If the course isn't right for you, contact support within 30 days of purchase.

No, that's outside the scope of this program. Lunging and barking at dogs, people, bikes or cars (leash reactivity) can come from fear or frustration and needs a different plan. Please start with your vet and then a qualified reward-based behavior professional. You can still use the gear and safety lessons, but avoid training near those triggers.

No particular brand is needed. A comfortable, well-fitted harness and a fixed-length leash of about 6 ft (2 m) are enough. A front-clip harness, where the leash attaches at the chest, is often helpful for dogs who pull strongly; RSPCA Australia calls it a gentle training aid. The Gear Fit Check in your workbook helps you check the fit.

The American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior recommends reward-based methods for all dog training and advises against tools that work through pain, along with leash jerking. RSPCA Australia says choke, slip and prong collars cause pain and distress and must not be used. Collars can also put pressure on the neck when a dog pulls. This program uses rewards only.

They're not part of the starting kit. RSPCA Australia suggests trying training and a front-attach harness first, and VCA's veterinary behaviorists note many dogs need weeks of gentle conditioning to accept one. If a head halter is ever suggested for your dog, have a reward-based professional fit it and show you how to use it.

Not for training walks. Retractable leads reduce your control, can let a dog reach traffic, can jerk the neck at the sudden stop, and tend to reward pulling. Use a fixed-length leash of about 6 ft (2 m). For free sniffing, a fixed-length long line on a harness in a safe open area works well.

It varies with your dog's age, history, energy and how consistently you practise. Battersea notes puppies may show progress within a few weeks while adult dogs who've pulled for a long time may take longer, and VCA's veterinary behaviorists say most dogs need several months of regular practice. The course gives you a 21-day starting plan and a tracker, but no timeline is promised.

Keep training walks short and give your dog daily exercise and sniffing outlets separately, such as play, sniffing games or a fixed-length long line in a safe open area. The lesson 'Training Walks vs. Exercise Outlets' covers options for must-do trips too.

No. The goal is a loose leash, not a formal heel. Your dog can be a little ahead, look around and sniff, as long as the leash stays slack. Sniff breaks are built in as rewards.

The aim is predictable sniffing, not less sniffing. RSPCA NSW says sniffing shouldn't be restricted, and PDSA says to let your dog sniff and explore. Your dog earns frequent sniff breaks with a loose leash, and gets free sniffing time in exercise outlets.

Yes, the exercises suit puppies. Keep sessions short and walks gentle. The Royal Kennel Club gives a rule of thumb of about five minutes of formal exercise per month of age, up to twice a day; ask your vet about the right amount for your puppy's age and breed, and check harness fit often as they grow.

Sudden reluctance, limping, stiffness or tiring easily can be signs of pain or a health problem, and dogs can be good at hiding pain. Stop training and check with your vet before continuing. Freezing, trembling or trying to go home can be fear, which also needs professional help.

No. It's an educational course researched and written with AI assistance from published veterinary and animal-welfare guidance, which is cited on every lesson. It hasn't been reviewed by a credentialed veterinary behaviorist or behavior professional, and it isn't a substitute for advice from your vet.

We offer a 30-day refund policy. If the course isn't right for you, contact support within 30 days of purchase.

No. There's no established scientific evidence that dogs use buttons as language: no grammar, sentences or abstract ideas. Research suggests trained dogs can learn associations between some button words and their outcomes. This program teaches buttons as a structured communication and enrichment game.

A 2024 PLOS ONE study found soundboard-trained dogs responded appropriately to play and outside words whether the word came from a button or a person, and from the owner or a stranger; food words gave no conclusive result. A 2024 Scientific Reports study of owner-logged app data from 152 dogs found some two-button combinations occurred more often than chance and weren't simple copying of owners. Neither claims dogs use language, and both disclosed ties between some authors and a button manufacturer. A 2025 study found dogs responded much less reliably to cues played through one button model than to live speech. The first lesson covers all three.

Because that's what it is: a program for using sound buttons. 'Talking' suggests spoken language, which the research doesn't support, so we keep it out of the name.

Any recordable buttons that are easy for your dog to press, stay put on a non-slip base, sound clear when played back, and have a secure battery cover. We're not affiliated with any brand, and buttons aren't included.

One or two to start. You'll add words one at a time, slowly. In the large UC San Diego citizen-science project, the typical dog uses about nine buttons, and many use fewer. A few clear words is a great result.

No. Button presses aren't a reliable way to tell how your dog feels. Watch body language and changes from your dog's normal, and see your vet for any health concerns. The lesson 'Buttons and Your Dog's Wellbeing' lists the signs to watch for.

Go back a step: introduce the sound from further away, at a lower volume if possible, paired with treats, and stop if your dog keeps avoiding it. Not every dog enjoys buttons, and that's fine. If your dog is frightened of noises in general, talk to your vet.

It varies a lot. Some dogs press within days, others take weeks, and some never show much interest. We don't promise a timeline. Consistent daily modeling is what helps most.

Use treats to teach the touch, but once a button plays its word, the outcome is the reward: OUTSIDE means you go outside, PLAY means you play. Treating every press can turn the board into a treat machine.

Frequent pressing is common and means the button works. First rule out health causes, especially if it's a sudden change. Then build a predictable daily schedule, give an absorbing alternative before busy times, and put the button away when you can't respond, rather than ignoring it. Never punish presses or restrict water.

Yes, with short sessions and modest expectations. Supervise closely, pick the buttons up between sessions if your puppy chews, and remember buttons don't replace a toilet-training schedule.

They can be. Swallowed or punctured batteries are an emergency. Choose buttons with secure battery covers, store spares out of reach and supervise early sessions. If you think your dog has swallowed or bitten into a battery, call your vet or an animal poison helpline straight away and don't try to make your dog vomit.

No. It's an educational course researched and written with AI assistance from published research and veterinary and animal-welfare guidance, cited on every lesson. It hasn't been reviewed by a veterinarian, credentialed behavior professional or researcher, and it isn't a substitute for advice from your vet.

We offer a 30-day refund policy. If the course isn't right for you, contact support within 30 days of purchase.

That's a question for your veterinarian, because disease risk varies by puppy and by area. The American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior supports carefully managed socialization before vaccinations are complete, with precautions such as cleanable class floors and avoiding dog parks, and Dogs Trust suggests carrying your puppy in public until they're fully protected. The course helps you build a plan with your vet, but it doesn't give vaccination advice.

Ask your vet. AVSAB's position statement says classes can start as early as 7 to 8 weeks, with at least one set of vaccines given at least 7 days before the first class, a first deworming, and vaccines kept up to date. VCA's veterinary behaviorists suggest looking for classes with clear health rules: vaccinated, parasite-free puppies, a cleanable space, and sick puppies kept home.

It's designed for puppies from about 8 weeks to 6 months, and for people preparing to bring a puppy home. Many exercises also suit older puppies and young adult dogs who are new to training.

Mouthing and play biting are common in puppies, especially when they're overtired, and Dogs Trust notes most puppies grow out of it. The course covers redirection, calm pauses and rest. Bites that break skin, biting with a stiff body and lips pulled back, sudden increases in biting, or growling or stiffening over food or toys are reasons to talk to your vet and a qualified behavior professional.

It includes the essentials. The separate Puppy Potty Training Plan goes much deeper, with schedules by age, troubleshooting and a three-week plan.

Short sessions of a minute or two, several times a day, suit puppies best. The daily rhythm lesson shows how to fit them around naps, meals and potty trips.

No. Everything is reward-based, in line with AVSAB's Humane Dog Training position statement, which recommends reward-based methods for all dog training and describes dominance and 'alpha' ideas as outdated. Handling practice is consent-based, with no pinning or restraint.

Go back to the last step your puppy was comfortable with and progress more slowly, as the crate lesson shows. Never use the crate as punishment. Persistent distress, like non-stop howling, drooling, trying to escape or panicking, is a reason to talk to your vet and a qualified behavior professional rather than pushing through.

No. Diet, feeding amounts, treats for special diets, exercise limits, chews and parasite control are your vet's call, and the course's first vet visit checklist helps you ask the right questions.

The course shows you how to keep new experiences positive and well paced, but it isn't a treatment for fear. AVSAB advises owners of fearful puppies to seek veterinary guidance. Please talk to your vet, who can refer you to a veterinary behaviorist or credentialed behavior consultant.

No program can promise that. Every puppy develops differently. This one gives you solid routines and first skills to keep building on, and socialization should continue through adolescence.

No. It's an educational course researched and written with AI assistance from published veterinary and animal-welfare guidance, which is cited on every lesson. It hasn't been reviewed by a veterinarian or credentialed behavior professional, and it isn't a substitute for advice from your vet.

We offer a 30-day refund policy. If the course isn't right for you, contact support within 30 days of purchase.

This program isn't a treatment for fear or anxiety. If your dog panics, freezes, hides, trembles, tries to flee or shows aggression, please talk to your vet and a qualified reward-based behavior professional; PDSA advises getting help early because fears tend to get worse. The exploring games are for everyday dogs with mild hesitation, and they're always voluntary. A fearful dog can still enjoy the sniffing, food and calm-down games, but those games aren't a substitute for professional help.

Something modest: an otherwise comfortable dog getting gentle, choice-based chances to explore a new surface or everyday object at their own pace, with good things happening when they do. Your dog decides how close to go and can always walk away. There's no luring, pushing or flooding, and it isn't a way of treating fear.

No. Most games use household items like towels, cardboard boxes, paper tubes and a muffin tin. Puzzle toys, lick mats and stuffable rubber toys are optional extras.

Not if you use part of your dog's regular daily food for games rather than adding extra, as Battersea suggests. PDSA suggests keeping treats to no more than 10% of the daily food allowance. If your dog has a special diet, allergies or a health condition, or you're unsure about their weight, check with your vet.

Yes, with care. Shredding under close supervision can be fine, but swallowing isn't. The ASPCA advises removing any DIY item your dog tries to swallow. If your dog eats cardboard or paper, stick to sturdy, non-edible puzzles like a muffin tin, and talk to your vet if your dog regularly eats non-food items.

Yes, but run food and chew games in separate spaces (different rooms, a gate or a crate) so each dog can enjoy theirs undisturbed. If any dog stiffens, growls, snaps or gulps food when another dog is near, pause those games and consult a professional. The ASPCA warns that punishing guarding can make it worse.

It depends on your dog. The ASPCA suggests choosing a chew sized for your dog's size and chewing style, watching your dog while they chew, and replacing chews before they get excessively worn. This course doesn't use cooked bones; the FDA warns cooked chicken and turkey bones are too brittle. If your dog swallows a chunk of chew, contact your vet immediately. Ask your vet if you're unsure what suits your dog's teeth and health.

Only if you've checked the label. The FDA warns some peanut and nut butters contain xylitol (also listed as birch sugar or wood sugar), which can cause a dangerous drop in blood sugar in dogs. Many owners simply use their dog's usual wet food instead. Count any spread toward the daily food budget.

One study tested this: Rooney and Bradshaw (2002) had 14 Golden Retrievers play tug they either won or lost, and winning or losing didn't change the measures most related to dominance. It's a small study, but it doesn't support the myth. What matters more is playing with clear, consistent rules: you start, 'leave' means the toy goes still, teeth stay on the toy, and games stay short.

No. Enrichment complements exercise, social time, training and veterinary care. It's especially useful on rainy days, busy days or in small spaces, but your dog still needs the basics.

Many games take 5–10 minutes, and some, like scatter feeding, are just a different way of serving food you'd give anyway. The weekly plan suggests two short games a day.

Many games can be adapted for any age; Purdue's guidance notes dogs of all ages need enrichment. Puppies need short games and lots of rest, and many seniors enjoy low-impact nose games. Ask your vet before physical games for puppies, seniors and dogs with joint, back or mobility problems.

No. It's an educational course researched and written with AI assistance from published veterinary and animal-welfare guidance, which is cited on every lesson. It hasn't been reviewed by a veterinarian or credentialed behavior professional, and it isn't a substitute for advice from your vet.

We offer a 30-day refund policy. If the course isn't right for you, contact support within 30 days of purchase.

The pack is designed as a companion to The Calm at the Door Program, which explains the full method (the mat, 'thank you', the door chain and visitor practice). The recordings alone cover only the sound-pairing step.

Yes. Recording your own bell on your phone works well. The pack's advantage is ready-made, graded volume steps and several sound types.

Many apartments use a door buzzer or intercom instead of a chime. Use the sound your home actually has first.

No. Pairing only works when you're there delivering treats as each sound plays. Unattended playback could make things worse.

We offer a 30-day refund policy. Contact support within 30 days of purchase.

Six complete programs (Calm at the Door, Puppy Potty Training, Loose-Leash Walking, the Sound Button Program, Puppy Foundations, and Dog Enrichment & Confidence Games), each with its own lessons and workbook, plus the Academy's own modules: orientation, guided practice plans, a troubleshooting library and progress tracking, with the Academy Planner & Tracker.

No. It's self-paced, on-demand content. There's no live coaching, personal feedback or one-to-one support, and we can't assess your dog. Every program explains clearly when a problem needs your vet or a qualified reward-based behavior professional.

With 'How the Academy Works' and 'Choosing Your First Program'. You'll do a quick scope check, then pick one main program based on your dog's age and what's most disruptive day to day, plus an optional companion such as Enrichment Games.

No. Each program stands on its own. The orientation helps you choose a starting point, and the practice plans help you add programs one at a time, about three weeks apart.

It stays in your library with your progress, alongside the other five programs and the Academy modules. If you're part-way through it, you can simply keep going and treat it as your main program.

Most programs use short sessions: about 10 minutes a day for Calm at the Door, one- to two-minute sessions for puppies in Puppy Foundations, and a couple of short games a day for Enrichment Games. Add about 10 minutes a week to plan and 10 minutes to review.

No. Aggression, intense fear, leash reactivity, resource guarding, separation-related distress and repetitive behaviors need a vet and a qualified behavior professional. The Academy explains the signs and who to contact.

Yes. No prong, choke or shock collars, no leash jerks or physical corrections, and no dominance framing, in line with the American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior's humane training position statement.

No. The Sound Button Program works with any recordable buttons, which you buy separately only if you decide to try it. It's an honest communication and enrichment game; it doesn't teach dogs to talk.

At current catalog prices, yes: the six programs bought individually cost more than the Academy price.

We can't promise outcomes or timelines. Results depend on your dog and on consistent practice, and plateaus are normal. The Academy gives you structured plans, troubleshooting and tracking to work through common everyday goals.

No. It's an educational course researched and written with AI assistance from published veterinary and animal-welfare guidance, which is cited on every lesson. It hasn't been reviewed by a credentialed veterinary behaviorist or behavior professional, and it isn't a substitute for advice from your vet.

We offer a 30-day refund policy. If the Academy isn't right for you, contact support within 30 days of purchase.

$14.99 per month. Your membership renews automatically every month, charged to your payment method on file, until you cancel.

Anytime, from your account page: Account → Memberships → Cancel membership. No phone call or email needed. After canceling you won't be charged again.

Your access continues until the end of the period you've already paid for. Your account page shows the date access ends.

A lesson collection, a practice challenge with a checklist, a routine and an enrichment activity, plus a short troubleshooting lesson for common snags and a level-up lesson for when your dog is ready. The practice sheets include a one-page Challenge Card for each month. The first three months are Everyday Manners Refresh, Better Walks and Brain Games.

Every month released so far is in your library as soon as you join. We suggest taking one month at a time. New monthly collections are added over time while you're a member.

No. Club lessons are shorter refreshers. Where a topic has a full program, such as Loose-Leash Walking or Dog Enrichment & Confidence Games, the lesson names it so owners who have it know which lessons to revisit. Programs are separate purchases.

No. It's online, self-paced content. There are no in-person classes, live sessions or personal feedback.

No, but members who've done a program may find it easiest to jump in. The welcome section explains how to get started.

No. Those need a vet and a qualified behavior professional. The Club also doesn't cover fear or resource guarding.

There is no free trial at this time. You'll see the price and renewal terms before you pay.